Back out in Corie an T-Sneachda again this time with an early start and a walk in under blue sky’s and on solid neve. As suspected the snow pack has frozen solid over night with solid neve from the walk in all the way to the top of the routes, even what ice that there is remained frozen for all the time I was there, bar the stuff exposed to the very hot sun at the top of the routes.
The early start gave me the advantage of being first into the corrie and the choice of routes. Over the last 2 days I’d being eyeing up “Patey’s Route” but with other teams there before me I hadn’t been able to get on route. This time the route was clear and looked as if no one had been on it, even the foot prints on approach had been covered in powder. The route went quite well with solid neve and ice over the first bulge, there even a lot of left institute gear on route which you can clip and have a rest. The crux pitch out left past the chock stone is a little sparse for ice but with a little work I found some good rock hooks for the axes to pull up on, a little committing but it worked, after that it was a pleasant hall to the top out above Aladins Couloir, don’t be fooled from below by the look of the big cornice at the top, its easily passed on the right.
After a climb down the Goat track, which at the moment is a full Winter grade I, I went back to the same buttress for a go at “Aladdins mirror Direct” Doesn’t look like anyone has been on this yet, with evidence of a team or 2 going to the right on “Honour among Thieves” Its not supprising as the ice is rather thin and a bit hollow in places, wouldn’t have been much cop in the conditions of the last 2 days. Anyway there was enough for a little guy like me (not withstanding the middle age spread) but you need to be a bit delicate with the axes. By the time id finished this climb the legs had burnt out and coupled with the sun softening the top of the climbs I decided to call it a day, or half day as it was only lunch time. Bring on tomorrow.